Although the lockdown has eased somewhat, we are still sticking to local walks, so I thought I would ask our Instagram followers what they wanted to see in the blog this week. The result of the vote was a landslide victory for Raby Castle in County Durham which opened its doors to dogs for the first time last year.
As soon as I saw that Raby were allowing dogs I was desperate to go. I had already visited sans spaniel a few years ago and on that occasion we had a wander around the inside of the castle – which I would definitely recommend to history fans! In particular I was interested in Raby as it was the home of Cecily Neville, a 15th century Duchess of York, and mother of Edward IV and Richard III. These individuals were all prominent characters in the Wars of the Roses so if this is a period that interests you then Raby is definitely a place to add to your travel checklist. There is an onsite car park which is free for visitors.
The castle itself is beautiful and more intact than a lot of castle of a similar age. Needless to say the welcome to dogs does not extend to the castle interior, but dogs are welcome in the gardens, parkland and the Stables cafe, which even provides free dog treats!
The formal gardens were very impressive with an 18th century walled garden to explore, which at the time we were visiting had a scavenger trail for children, which seemed to be very popular! You can do a virtual tour of the gardens on Raby’s website which is great while the site is shut due to coronavirus. There are also around 200 acres of parkland to roam in, where you can see both red and fallow deer. Dogs do understandably need to be kept on a lead in the gardens and park, but the wider estate does have a network of footpaths which you can access for longer walks if you want to stretch your legs a bit more. This includes High Force waterfall, which has its own parking area at High Force Hotel.
High Force is accessed via a woodland walkway and the estate charges for access to the site (adults £2 children £1). The waterfall is extremely impressive, especially after rain, and it is therefore (sensibly) not permitted to enter the water. If you are looking for a longer walk, you can visit both Low Force and High Force on this five mile circular route.
The Raby estate has plenty to do for a dog walker. The park and gardens are a lovely way to spend a morning or an afternoon, followed by a stop in the stables cafe – not to mention the excellent gift shop which features lots of local products. Raby also very often run seasonal events, such as a Christmas market, which I have not attended but I have heard is excellent. Entrance to Raby is quite pricey (Historic Houses members enter free), and you do have to pay for parking on top of this, although if you love the site you can pay for an annual membership for free entry year round. Prices vary depending on where you want to visit on the site and a full list of prices is available on their website.
Overall dog friendly rating – 4/5. While dogs do need to be kept on leads in the garden and park, there are plenty of longer walks you can access with your pooch to let them stretch their legs. It’s also a lovely touch to have free dog treats in the cafe – we definitely felt very welcome! Top this off with a stroll down to High Force or around the woods on the Raby Estate and you have an almost perfect dog friendly day out.
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Scar House is my favourite local reservoir. It is less busy than Fewston and Swinsty, there is the opportunity for dogs to go for a swim, and the scenery is more varied and changing than nearby Grimwith. You can walk around Scar House Reservoir on its own for a nice walk which is around 4 miles, but if you want a slightly longer walk, you can add on neighbouring Angram reservoir to extend the walk.
There is a fairly large car park by the reservoir which gives you direct access to the walk, which includes (clean!) toilets. The walk itself is fairly easy, following the reservoir across a variety of terrain, including open moorland. This can be boggy in winter (and in summer after rain). The moor is home to lots of Yorkshire wildlife, including ground nesting birds such as lapwings which you will almost definitely see in nesting season. We have also seen adders basking on the path in summer so keep an eye out so as to avoid accidentally stepping on them! They are exceptionally well camouflaged, see if you can spot the one in the photo below….
There are some great places for dogs to jump in the water for a swim on hot days (also available on cold days if you have a water loving dog!). There are water birds about so if your dog is liable (like Merry is) to try and swim the length of the reservoir to try and catch a goose you will need to look out for them. There are also lots of sheep on this walk so keep your dog under close control.
Dog friendly rating: 3/5. This isn’t a great walk if your dog is likely to chase livestock and doesn’t walk nicely on the lead. However, if your dog IS well behaved off the lead, you can enjoy a lovely walk around Scar House with almost no people. So if you are looking for quietness, swimming opportunities and a walk which is pretty much entirely off road, Scar House Reservoir is a very safe bet.
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The beautiful weather this week reminded me of a walk we did a few years ago in the Lake District. Great Gable had been on both of our ‘to-do’ lists for quite a while, and as we were staying close by, we thought we would stop off on our way home at the end of the weekend.
We chose to walk Great Gable along with Kirk Fell, as we thought that the route would be quieter than ascending Great Gable directly from Wasdale. There is free parking in Wasdale but get there early as it fills up! It was a tough walk with lots of steep ascents, made sweatier by the beautiful weather, but the views from Kirk Fell were stunning and we had them all to ourselves! A rarity in the Lake District these days and all the more special because of it. The summit of Kirk Fell is a great place to stop and have lunch (please remember to take your litter home) – you’ll need the extra fuel to ascend Great Gable after coming down Kirk Fell! The image at the top of the page is the view of Great Gable from Kirk Fell – I will admit my courage nearly failed me when I saw how far we had to climb! The ascent itself wasn’t too bad however and is definitely easier than the climb up Kirk Fell, so keep going!
This is a fab walk for dogs who love water. There is quite a bit of water at the start of the walk, and you will come to a series of tarns between Kirk Fell and Great Gable. Merry loved having a chance to jump in for a swim to cool off, and the water was so clear that I was tempted to jump in and join him!
As always in the Lake District there are sheep on this walk so keep your dog under close control. We use a Ruffwear roamer lead on walks like this where we are likely to need to use both hands to scramble – you can clip it around your waist and use both hands to stay upright!
At the end of the walk we treated ourselves to dinner at the Wasdale Head Inn. We sat outside as it was such a lovely evening so I’m not sure if they allow dogs inside, but there were water bowls outside for dogs to drink from which was useful. It was lovely seeing all the crowds of people coming down Scafell Pike and having seen pretty much exactly the same view from the top of Great Gable, with about a tenth of the number of people on the summit.
Overall dog friendly rating – 3.5/5. Your dog will need to be under close control for all of this walk, and there are no poo bins so you will need carry poo bags the whole way. However, this is a lovely walk and much quieter than I expected it to be, with opportunities for swimming and scrambling – which adventurous pups like Merry will love!
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We have been National Trust members for the last three years and have definitely made the most of their discounted Young Person’s membership! This means we can access dog friendly days out for free wherever we are, and at home we are lucky enough to live not too far from Fountains Abbey, one of our go-to ways to spend a morning or an afternoon.
Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal is a UNESCO world Heritage site and one of the most popular days out in North Yorkshire. For this reason, I would recommend avoiding the site at weekends in summer. You can spend as little or as much time as you like at the site exploring the ruins of the abbey, strolling through the water gardens (which are the reason that the site is recognised by UNESCO) and walking through the abbey’s deer park – complete with an impressive herd of deer! There is free parking on site, with a few car parks to choose from, depending on where you are coming from.
There are plenty of walks to be had around Fountains. You do need to keep your dog on a lead around the abbey and in the deer park (for obvious reasons), but one of our favourite walks, the seven bridges walk, traverses an area of woodland which is perfect for your dog to get off the lead and explore. We quite often leave the route at this point and explore the paths criss crossing the wood! By starting from the village of Studley Roger you can avoid the busier centre of the site if you wish, although we definitely recommend calling at one of the cafes for the obligatory National Trust cream tea! There is both a restaurant and a tearoom, and plenty of benches if you want to bring your own picnic. Dogs are allowed everywhere on the site apart from a few indoor places which are clearly signed ‘no dogs’.
Fountains is beautiful whenever you visit but my favourite time is autumn. The summer crowds have disappeared and the site is much quieter. Merry also loves snuffling in the leaves which may unearth a pheasant or two! There is however no bad time to visit Fountains, as even on the busiest of days you can escape the crowds by heading into the deer park, which is always quieter than the ruins and the water gardens. This is one of our go to days out and definitely one for the bucket list if you haven’t already been. Dog friendly rating – 4/5. A lot of the site is on lead and it can be busy if you have a nervous dog.
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Another week in lockdown, so I thought I’d share one of my favourite local walks. Starting from the village of Reeth, take a gentle stroll along the river Swale to the pretty village of Healaugh.
This is a relatively short and gentle walk, with a similar route available on Where2Walk. This route goes a bit further but if you want a slightly shorter walk you can take the footpath away from the river up to Healaugh. The shorter walk is around three miles and takes us around an hour and a half.
You can park on the village green in Reeth (please put some money in the honesty box for parking!) and make your way to the start of the walk. There is a section of the walk along the river so make sure they are on a lead if they are like Merry and liable to jump in! The riverside section is in parts fenced off so you can let your dog off the lead but please make sure that they are on a lead when you go through fields with live stock. There are also lots of stiles on this walk, including a few which made Merry realise he needed to lose a few Christmas pounds…
Reeth is one of my favourites places in the Dales and I would definitely recommend it as a place to stay if you are planning to visit the Dales. It is the starting point for lots of walks and there are plenty of shops and places to eat – my favourite place to call in after a walk is the dog friendly Copper Kettle where they have a great lunch menu (including very tasty cake!)
I am tempted to give this walk full marks for dog friendliness just because I love it so much – BUT there are lots of stiles which might be tricky for bigger dogs, and there are quite a few sections where you need to put your dog on a lead. However, this walk is pretty much all off road, there is the opportunity for dogs to stretch their legs off the lead AND to call in somewhere for cake afterwards. What more could you want?! So overall this walk gets a dog friendly rating of 3.5/5.
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Yesterday we were meant to be heading up to the far north west of Scotland for a week’s holiday. Unfortunately, the nationwide lockdown has meant we have had to delay our trip until later in the year. Therefore I thought I would share some memories from our last visit to Kinlochbervie, a fishing village in Sutherland, where we stayed in September 2018. I’ll share where we stayed, what we did, and how dog friendly it all was!
Where We Stayed
We stayed in a cosy cottage just outside of Kinlochbervie. Being completely honest, we picked it because it was the cheapest property available on the dates we wanted, and didn’t look into the cottage or location at all! We really fell on our feet with Inchard Barn. The cottage was snug and secluded with amazing views over Loch Inchard.
The cottage was set in beautiful scenery – the photo on the left was taken about 20 metres from the cottage! We very often saw deer in the garden at night and in the early mornings.
Overall dog friendly rating for Inchard Barn – 4/5. The cottage has easily cleaned floors downstairs so we didn’t need to worry about a soggy spaniel getting any carpet wet! (always a bonus in Scotland!). The only reason this cottage doesn’t get a 5/5 dog friendly rating is that the garden wasn’t completely secured – but that didn’t matter at all with the miles of walking right from the front door!
The first walk that we did was Sandwood Bay, which is reportedly the most beautiful beach in Britain. Despite being relatively well known, we saw almost no people on our walk, and when we got to the beach we had it entirely to ourselves! This may be something to do with the four mile walk to get to the beach from the car park at Blairmore. There is an honesty box here with money going to the John Muir Trust so try and leave something if you can! There are also some public toilets at the car park.
Although four miles each way might sound like a long way, the path is clear and well defined and almost completely flat. The scenery along the way is typical for the area and the stunning beach is well worth a walk! We had glorious sunshine for most of the walk although we did get caught in a hail storm on our way back to the car park – make sure you are prepared for all weathers!
Dog friendly rating – 5/5. There is plenty of space (the beach is 1.5 miles long) for your dog to run around and the whole walk was extremely quiet. There are no poo bins, so please pick up after your dog and take it away with you to dispose of.
The River Inver
Later on in the week we headed down to Lochinver to visit the famous Lochinver Larder where Sam had memories of amazing pies on childhood family holidays. The Lochinver Larder is unfortunately not dog friendly, however, they do operate a takeaway service and we were able to pop by and pick up one or two (or six) pies to take with us on our walk. We were able to park up in Lochinver (free parking on the waterfront by the church) and then headed out of the town along the River Inver. The route we followed was from our Pocket Mountains guide but a similar route is available on walkhighlands.
I had heard that there are otters living along the river Inver so I was desperate to see one, but unfortunately we were out of luck – unsurprising given that we were walking with a very noisy spaniel who was desperate to get in the water at all costs! This was a lovely walk along the river, through woodland and then out onto some open moor with absolutely awesome views of Glencanisp and Suilven.
Dog friendly rating – 4/5. This is a great walk for dogs, it is almost all off-road and the woods offer plenty of exciting smells! However the river can be very fast flowing and given how much Merry loves the water, we needed to keep him on the lead for a lot of the walk to stop him jumping in and being swept away!
We visited Tongue on a day when it seemed like it was pouring down in the whole of Sutherland, and we therefore decided to visit Tongue as it was the only place within a two hour radius where it wasn’t forecast to be absolutely sloshing down all day.
Tongue is a postcard picture village pretty much as far north as you can go (we drove past signs for Cape Wrath on our way there). There is free parking in the centre of the village. From the village we walked up to Castle Varrich, a ruin on a high ground with great views over the Kyle of Tongue. This was quite a short walk but we saw plenty of wildlife, including a golden eagle which was an amazing experience – it just flew out of a tree about 10 metres away from us! The castle is free to visit and the ruin has a staircase inside which you can climb to make the most of the views.
On our way back to Kinlochbervie we stopped off twice, once at the Smoo Cave, and secondly at Ceannabeinne beach. Smoo Cave is a massive sea cave and has lots of interesting facts, including the fact that it was inhabited in the Mesolithic period. We only went into the first part of the cave which is free to enter but you can go further in on paid tours. Ceannabeinne beach is a pretty little stretch of sand where we stopped off to stretch our legs. The car park is right next to the road and the beach is immediately adjacent.
Dog friendly rating – 3/5. All of our walks were quite short and either involved road walking or being close to a round, so not ideal for off lead walks. However, all of the places with the exception of the cave were dog friendly, so we were happy having a wander to explore the area.
During our visit the weather was what I would call ‘hit and miss’. There was only one day when we had the classic deluge associated with Scotland, but we only had one day where it was forecast to be dry all day. Ben Stack was therefore the only mountain we attempted, although sadly, we did not reach the summit after turning back due to the rate the wind was picking up. There are no car parks near the start so you will need to leave your car at the road side while you walk.
The route on Walkhighlands takes a fairly short approach to the summit – do no be deceived though as the path is non-existent in places so map reading skills are a must. We did do our fair share of tramping through the heather trying to find the best path to the summit! It is also very boggy so make sure you wear your waterproof boots.
Dog friendly rating – 5/5. Merry absolutely loves jumping through heather and it was the perfect way to wear out a crazy spaniel! We didn’t see any livestock on this walk and there were no styles, however, there are plenty of deer in this area so make sure that you check your dog for ticks when you get home.
Oldshoremore beach was by far my favourite beach we visited! It was about a ten minute drive from our cottage and is easily accessed from a car park (no charge) if you don’t fancy the walk to Sandwood Bay!
It was absolutely pristine with no litter, people or signs of humanity! It was so completely wild and remote feeling and I felt a bit like we had cheated not having to walk a few miles to get there!
Dog friendly rating – 5/5. This beach is dog friendly and oh so wonderfully quiet! There were quite a few jellyfish washed up on the beach when we were there, so if your dog is likely to try and eat them, make sure you keep an eye out! As always please pick up any dog poo to keep the beach this lovely for the next person.
Lairg is a small village at the end of Loch Shin which is famous for the ‘wee hoose’ you can see on an island in the loch as you drive through. We found a few walks in the area in our Pocket Mountains book, which were perfect for doing two walks in one day, without having to rush back to the car to get to the start of the next walk. Since returning from Scotland I have also discovered that Lairg is a potential impact location for a meteorite that hit the Earth 1.2 billion years ago!
To get a good view of the potential impact site, climb The Ord, a small hill by Scottish standards which is also home to a suspected prehistoric burial chamber. It’s a very short and easy walk to the top of the hill, and you can extend it by adding a stroll through Ferry Wood on to the start of the walk. There is free parking at Ferrycroft Visitor Centre.
Dog friendly rating – 5/5. This walk is all off road and there are plenty of opportunities to let your dog off the lead. Quiet despite it’s proximity to Lairg.
Once we’d finished our walk up The Ord we headed East to visit Ravens Rock Gorge, another site which offers free parking. This mixed woodland was extremely atmospheric and Merry absolutely loved it (as did Sam and I). There are two short trails you can follow – don’t follow the longer trail like we did as this is actually no longer accessible due to fallen trees caused by a landslip. We didn’t notice the warning signs and ended up climbing over tree trunks on the path and jumping over gaps in bridges! It was fairly challenging (it felt a bit like we were in Tomb Raider in places) and probably not safe for the public to access, hence the warning signs. So if you visit makes sure you stick to the paths!
Dog friendly rating – 5/5. There is lots of space for your dog to explore off the lead and you will hardly encounter any other people. Merry loved this walk and had to be bodily lifted back into the car to leave!
Map of Locations
The map below shows all of the places we visited on our trip. I’ve summed up where places are below and included a dog friendly rating.
Inchard Barn Cottage – dog friendly rating 4/5.
Sandwood Bay – dog friendly rating 5/5.
Lochinver and River Inver walk – dog friendly rating 4/5.
Tongue and Castle Varrich – dog friendly rating 3.5/5.
Smoo Cave – not dog friendly.
Ceannabeinne beach – dog friendly rating 3/5.
Oldshoremore beach – dog friendly rating 5/5.
Ben Stack – dog friendly rating 5/5.
Ferry Wood and The Ord, Lairg – dog friendly rating 5/5.
Ravens Rock Gorge – dog friendly rating 5/5.
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